content/opentally.rst

Thu, 05 Nov 2020 23:28:39 +0100

author
David Douard <david.douard@sdf3.org>
date
Thu, 05 Nov 2020 23:28:39 +0100
changeset 129
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parent 128
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Add a few missing :alt: to images

far from being done everywhere however...

125
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1 ================
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2 OpenTallyLight
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3 ================
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4
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5 :Author: David Douard
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6 :Category: Electronics
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7 :Tags: ITC100, Tally Ligth, Arduino, Firmata
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8
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9
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10 A month ago, a friend of mine called me to ask for help with a technical device
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11 that seemed not to work properly.
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12
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13 He was testing with a friend some video recording setup. They use vMix_ to mix
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14 (live) video streams from 4 (or more) vide cameras (Panasonic GH5 if I'm not
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15 mistaken). They also have a DataVideo ITC100_ intercom system. Now the problem
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16 was: how to control tally lights via the ITC100_ from vMix_?
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17
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18 Surprisingly there are not so many affordable solutions on the market.
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19 Eventually, they found one device, made by a small US company, that would fit
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20 the needs. It's the setup of this very device that was not working properly
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21 when they called me.
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22
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23 TL;DR;
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24 ======
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25
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26 Go to the `project's gitlab page`_ if you want the kicad project files.
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27
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28 _`project's gitlab page`: https://framagit.org/douardda/opentallylight
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29
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30
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31 The non working tally light controller
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32 ======================================
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33
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34 The device itself is a small-factor plastic box with a USB B connector, a LED
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35 indocator, plus a pair of HD15 connectors (for the connection with the
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36 ITC100_).
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37
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38 The first unsual fact was the LED indicator was not on. But that not the only
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39 bizarre stuf:
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40
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41 - the USB device was sometimes identified by the PC, sometimes not (and no it
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42 was not a bad contact),
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43
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44 - when plugged to the ITC100, some tally lights immediately lighed up but quite
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45 dimly,
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46
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47 - and no attempt to change the current and preview streams did not change
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48 anything on the tally light side.
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49
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50 So I grabbed the device home, opened it up and tried to identify a possible
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51 problem. At that time, we knew the PCB had a problem (because of the LED
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52 staying off), and the seller sent a new PCB (without the case to save a bit on
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53 the shipment), so I was not too worried of hacking the dead PCB.
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54
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55 I discovered a short circuit between the pads of the LED, and this was
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56 disturbing the 5V USB supply. In fact, depending on the hability for the USB
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57 ports used on the PC to deliver enought current to actually power the
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58 microcontroller or not, the device was seen by the PC or not.
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59
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60 I though this was the problem, so I just removed the LED and it's limiting
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61 current resistor: no more over current on the 5V rail, the device was now
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62 properly recongnized by the PC every time weplugged it in.
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63
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64 I also tried to understand a bit the circuit which was in fact dead simple: a
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65 PIC18F4553 microcontroller is presented as a HID device to the PC and control
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66 directly (via a resistor) the pins of the HD15 connectors.
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67
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68 So I tried to 'reverse engineer' the "control" protocol and since it was a
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69 simple HID device, I just wrote a small Python script to try all the possible
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70 addresses on the first 2 bytes, using pyhidapi_. And I quickly discovered how
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71 to control individual pins connected controlling the tally lights (via the
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72 ITC100_). On my Linux machine with a simple LED connected directed to the HD15
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73 connector, it was looking like it was working.
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74
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75 .. _pyhidapi: https://github.com/apmorton/pyhidapi
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76
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77 But once plugged on the ITC100_, it was still not working. Same erratic
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78 behavior, same total absence of actual control of the tally lights.
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79
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80 This time I had a multimeter with me, so I took measurments on the ITC100_
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81 side: each tally light signal was at 12V! and had to be pulled down to ground
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82 to light the corresponding tally light on.
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83
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84 Since the device was attempting to control directly these signals from the PIC,
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85 no way this could have ever worked. And this was sold something like 650US$
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86 plus shipment...
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87
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88 A first prototype
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89 =================
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90
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91 So I explained to my friends there was no possible way of making this device
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92 work as intended: it was just not designed correctly. Meanwhile, one of them
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93 told me that vMix also have support for controlling tally light via
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94 Arduino-based setups using the Firmata_ protocol.
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95
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96 .. _Firmata: https://firmata.org
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97
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98 Since the fiasco with the "professional" device they bouight, they were really
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99 on the urgent need for a working solution, like for the day after, so I spent
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100 the evening building a very rough prototype.
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101
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102 I wanted to provide them a better solution, besides a working one. Like with
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103 proper galvanic isolation between the microcontroller and the ITC100_ part of
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104 the circuit.
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105
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106 Since I had no time nor enough optocouplers in my stash of junk parts, so I
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107 just used regular non isolated 2N2222 to control the ITC100_ tally light lines.
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108
128
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109 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/proto.jpg
125
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110 :alt: A very rough protoype of OpenTallyLight
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111
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112 It's a very crude protoype, but i worked! Believe it or not, but they have been
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113 able to record several events with this board!
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114
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115 A (slightly) better protoype
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116 ============================
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117
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118 Since we validated the Arduino and Firmata based approach, I proposed them to
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119 design and build a better device.
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120
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121 At first, I kept the idea of using an existion arduino compatible board and
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122 only design a daughter board for the optocouplers and the connectors.
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123
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124 I chose the Sparkfun Pro Micro: it was one of the smallest board with enough
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125 pins to drive the 8 tally lights (each with 2 LEDs, the green for preview
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126 signaling, and the red for signaling the recording in progress).
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127
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128 So I designed a first PCB (in fact several of them, but meh) using Kicad_.
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129
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130 In the mean time, I also spent quite some time looking for a nice aluminium
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131 enclosure for the PCB. I finally found a small extruded one for a 80x50mm PCB
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132 on aliexpress. It was perfect, so I ordered 5 of them.
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133
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134 I also decided to replace the HD15 connectors by RJ45 ones, then assemblng
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135 custom cables from shielded RJ4 Cat6 ones.
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136
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137 So I ended up with this design:
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138
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139 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/opentally-pcb-1.jpg
125
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140 :alt: A slightly better design of OpenTallyLight
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141
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142
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143 Looks neat, but... I did not realize I put the RJ45 socket backwards! Doh!
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144
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145 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/proto2.jpg
125
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146 :alt: A (not so) better proto of OpenTallyLight
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147
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148 In order to test is nometheless, I put the Pro Micro on the back side of the
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149 PCB (otherwise I was not able to plug the RJ45 cable in).
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150
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151 Unfortunately, if this board worked fine on Linux (I mean the Firmata protocol
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152 part, since vMix does not work on Linux), the Firmata protocol on Pro Micro is
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153 not working on Windows. vMix was not able to establish the connection with the
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154 Pro Micro, neither did the Firmata test program available on the Firmata_ web
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155 site. I'm not sure why it did not work on Windows, but I had no time nor the
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156 desire to debug this Windows evil misbehavior.
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157
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158 I looked in my tray of development boards, and found a few Nucleo ones that are
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159 supported by the Arduino environment and have almost compatible pinout with the
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160 Pro Micro. I had to budge a pair of tracks on the PCB, but I could make it work.
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161
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162 OpenTallyLight
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163 ==============
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164
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165 So I designed a new version of the board. This time I stick to a good known
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166 working pair: an ATmega328P + FT232RL based solution (the Pro Micro is based on
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167 the ATmega32U4 which embeds the USB controller).
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168
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169 I wanted to use a USB B connector rather than a micro USB one (too fragile for
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170 this kind of environment), and since I also wanted the design to stay small
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171 enough to fit in my cute little enclosures, I decided to implement the arduino
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172 on the PCB itself.
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173
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174 The PCB design looks like:
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175
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176 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/opentally-v3.jpg
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177 :alt: A better design for OpenTallyLight
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178
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179 Which gives, in real life:
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180
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181 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/front.jpg
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182 :alt: Front side of the PCB
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183
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184 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/back.jpg
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185 :alt: Back side of the PCB
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186
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187 And the result once installed in the enclosure:
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188
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189 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/complete-unit.jpg
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190 :alt: The completed OpenTallyLight
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191
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192 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/enclosure.jpg
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193 :alt: The completed OpenTallyLight (enclosure front)
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194
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195 .. image:: {static}/images/opentally/enclosure-2.jpg
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196 :alt: The completed OpenTallyLight (enclosure back)
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197
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198
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199 The good news is it worked immediately. The bad news is I forgot to put an ICSP
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200 connector on this PCB. So I had to burn an Arduino bootloader on the ATmega
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201 chip before I soldered it on the PCB.
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202
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203
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204
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205
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206
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207
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208
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209
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210
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211
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212 .. _vMix: https://www.vmix.com/
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213 .. _ITC100: https://www.datavideo.com/eu/product/ITC-100
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214 .. _kicad: https://kicad.org

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